Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
