🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.